Oct 02 2012

The Cliff of Hell defeated

Tuesday 2nd October: Woke to pack a wet tent. Later, on the cliffs, was asked by a walking couple whether I was in the forces .. haha, doggedly stomping the coast path with an impressive sack on my back – it’s no wonder not many people dare talk to me (actually, that’s not true .. I’m always keen to pass the time of day). Now in Porthleven, seated in the very friendly Nosebag Cafe, for a full English – a regular part of my routine – and singing a rousing chorus of Happy Birthday To You (to Roy?? the old bloke sitting in the corner with a grin, surrounded by his friends ..). Replenished my first aid kit in Boots, bought an organic pasty and pastry for my lunch. Overtaken by a keen walker on Loe Bar; stopped to pay a visit to the beautiful St Gunwalloe Church (the Church of Storms), dedicated to St Winwaloe and nestled amongst the dunes of Church Cove; walked high upon the Halzephron (Cliff of Hell – I’ll stick to the Cornish!); got lost briefly coming down to Kynance cove and had to climb a fence and shimmy down a rock face; and FINALLY arrived at Lizard. I’ve always been a bit dismissive of this town, though have visited the Polpeor Cafe on the headland on many occasion (fantastic home made food in the most spectacular location). But this evening Lizard was delightful! Pitched my tent in a corner of Henry’s (www.henryscampsite.co.uk/) – the most colourful and welcoming campsite I’ve ever visited. Even in the mizzle. Then to the pub to sit by an open fire and soak in the atmosphere and a huge plate of food (my only complaint was that the brewery had given instructions not to allow patrons to charge up their mobile phones while having a drink. How ridiculous!). Met Paul, the speed walker who stormed past me earlier – final destination Falmouth, staying in B&Bs (lightweight), and completing the entire SW coast path a week at a time. Sensible man. Planned to meet up again tomorrow at Porthallow.

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