Mar 23 2017

Stage 13: Villacañas to Tembléque (menu del dia served by a horribly grumpy waitress) to Villanueva de Bogas (and lovely José Luis, the ‘bedroom’ key bearer). 31.8km

Sun and wind. A relief to have the plains behind us, out of endless vines and into more interesting countryside. Tembléque windmills greet the peregrino in the approach to the town. The beautiful Plaza Major, built in 17th century, designed as a bull ring with three entrances and viewing balconies – not an uncommon feature.

Bedroom tonight is a ‘refugio’ in a small classroom. We hauled our mattresses onto the tables. Retro heating once again – but we were offered blankets this time. Besides, the warmth of the welcome was heating enough!

Spent the evening in the bar across from the refuge, giving an impromptu English lesson to Ainhara (7) and Juan (4), for which we were paid in beer and liver. Perfect.

So many rabbits in the countryside in these parts. A proper plague.