Apr 08 2017

Stage 29: Mombuey to Puebla de Sanabria 30.7kms

Last night shared a small room with a Dutch man with an upset stomach, a Czech who needed to pee, and Simon who likes to read through the night. Asked whether I slept well, I made a polite gesture and mumbled a ‘yes’, thinking OF COURSE I DIDN’T BLOODY SLEEP WELL, you IDIOT! (but thanks for asking..).

Happy to be up and out and walking, despite the freezing temperatures. Lots of pit stops today to readjust clothing – freezing wind then brief respite as the clouds parted. Then snow. Then sun.

We’re beginning to pass through abandoned villages. It’ll get worse when we enter Galicia. Old couples tending their allotments by hand, chopping wood, back breaking work. All the young people have departed. It breaks my heart to see these beautiful buildings left to rot along with whole communities .. but there’s little incentive to restore them and no money. The weather here certainly doesn’t encourage tourism.

The future may lie in Sanabria’s wildlife together with money paid to mountain villages from renewable energy schemes.

Saw the last of the storks and hoopoes. Replaced by Jays and blackbirds. A family of deer passed across our path as we walked among the lichen covered holm oak. All the time the snow covered peaks ahead of us.

The heaviest snow fall on the Camino so far; luckily we were sheltering in the only cafe en route. Desperate for a coffee by then. I think I’ve developed a coffee dependency. Caffeine deficiently teasy.

The albergue is shut in Puebla de Sanabria – so we’ve checked into a dangerously white hotel room. Tomorrow we’re heading vertically up.. more snow forecast.

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