Apr 17 2017

Stage 36: Ourense to San Cristóbal de Cea 22.5km

A long walk along the main road followed by a steep climb out of Ourense (a city of bridges spanning the Miño). 3km of unrelenting 21%, then a slow, enjoyable walk through oak woods and across gorse moor. A picnic by a waterfall and a roman bridge (Simon studying the pond life), a couple of cafe stops, punctuated by more gentle walking.

It appears that we’ve found our lower gear. Pepe is right to calls us ‘flojos’ – we were going to see the monks at Oseira, but we stopped in this town after a relatively short meander because the sight of Pepe and Bernadette sitting in the sun at the albergue was too inviting. We have until Sunday to get to Santiago (it’s only Wednesday) – then it’ll be expensive and touristy. So why rush?!

This is a fine albergue, a converted village house, with thick granite walls, a wide terrace and a traditional horreo – no longer storing maize, but full of old mattresses and sleeping mats. And probably mice. The cats all look well fed round here. The town has at least three bars, a quite ‘super’ market, plus a pulperia, which we patronised last night. Galego soup, followed by a plate of octopus. And too much wine. Left Simon at the bar drinking with Pepe .. heard the dogs of the town barking, heralding his homecoming at 12.30, full of licor de hierbas (‘típico’!).

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